Nepali flat

Yoga and Trekking in Nepal: Annapurna Ways in 2022 
​Part 2: My adventures and trekking in Himalayas

Disclaimer: These are my memories of my first visit to Nepal two years ago. I'm sharing my own experiences and stories, and there are no affiliate links or sponsored content. This part focuses on the trekking portion of my adventure, which turned out to be longer than I anticipated. As a token of appreciation for reaching the end, I've prepared a special gift: My Ultimate Trekking Packing List for 15-17 day treks in Nepal. You can get it here!

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The General Plan
Our general itinerary was to tackle some beginner-friendly trekking, like the Poon Hill trek in the Annapurna range. After that, we were supposed to be heading south to Chitawan National Park and Sanctuary, hoping to spot elephants, rhinos, and maybe even go canoeing.
Pokhara was our starting point for the trek, so we unloaded any unnecessary items like sandals and shorts and tried to lighten our backpacks.
After a night in Pokhara, we woke up early for our morning yoga session. Then, Sahadev (our local guide from Himalaya Travel Adventures) arrived to pick us up with a car. We met our porter, Robin, a young, skinny, and shy boy in his early 20s. He was doing porter work during his off time while studying to be a school teacher. His dream was to move to Japan.

Nayapul (Naya pool) - First Trekking Impressions
Our small trekking group - Sahadev, Robin, Angie, and myself - headed to Nayapul, a popular starting point for the Annapurna Conservation Area. The drive took approximately 1.5 hours, and the taxi dropped us off in a small village with streets lined with little shops offering last-minute hiking and trekking gear.
Sahadev and Robin packed our backpacks, making me feel a bit ashamed as their backpacks were smaller than our daily "small" backpacks!
With big smiles and enthusiasm, we began our first day of trekking. Yay! Angie seemed to be more than just a fast walker; she was a turbo-powered trekking machine!
Soon after leaving Nayapul, we passed the first checkpoint where Sahadev showed our trekking permits, officially registering our time, date, and route. Beyond the checkpoint, the paved path ended, and we followed the trails.
We passed through picturesque landscapes, walked alongside a tiny river (later realizing it was the sacred Modi River), walked under the sun, got sweaty, hot, and out of breath (especially me). After a couple of hours of walking, we stopped for lunch and a short break before heading towards my first milestone: the 3000 stone steps to Ulleri, where we were supposed to stay for the night.

Ulleri - Realizing What I'm Missing from My Prep
Ulleri is a small village filled with lodges for trekkers. It feels cozy and friendly, especially after finally reaching it after climbing 3000 stone steps. Phew, they are 3000! I counted them :))) Sahadev mentioned the number as we approached, and out of curiosity, I decided to count. To be honest, it was my way to fight the exhaustion. 10 steps, 3 breaths break, 20 steps, 5 breaths break. 100 steps - where was I with the counting? Oh, 1600. Good. 10 more. 3 breaths, and on and on.
When we reached the village, I knew what I had missed from my trekking prep: climbing stairs workouts. Because honestly, if you can climb the stairs in a 20-floors building without breaks, you're absolutely ready for Nepal!
In the lodge, we met a Dutch girl, Carolijn, who happened to be one of my students in Equal Yoga in Amsterdam and recognized me. We ended this amazing day with a yoga practice on the lodge's rooftop terrace, with Annapurna South covered in gold behind us and the amazing bright blue sky above. This practice was super emotional for all of us. For Carolijn, it was the end of her trekking journey, and for us, it was just the beginning. We laughed, we cried, we hugged, and we went to bed full-hearted.
On this trek, sleeping in a lodge worked perfectly for me. I'm a good sleeper in general (once I manage to fall asleep, of course), and I'm grateful for this skill. My fellow partner in crime, Angie, had more issues, though. She's a light sleeper, hears every noise (and there are plenty), so her earplugs were an essential part of her evening routine.
Another important thing to mention is that the rooms don't have heating. The heating is available until around 9 PM in the common area, where you can warm up and dry your clothes if needed.
I also noticed that everyone is in bed around 9 PM and wakes up between 6:30 and 7:30 AM. Totally different from my usual night owl routine!

Ghorepani and Poon Hill - Change of Plans
The next day began with a gentle, stretchy yoga session on the rooftop terrace and some masala tea. We packed and started on a lovely trail through the jungle. The walking was definitely easier and lighter compared to day 1. Actually, all days were easier compared to day 1. There were plenty of trekkers on the trail, but it was still nice and peaceful.
We reached Ghorepani in the early afternoon. Ghorepani is a larger village with plenty of lodges, as it's located in the skirts of Poon Hill, a 3210-meter hill offering a 360-degree view of the Annapurna range. The place is packed with people from everywhere, as it's considered one of the easier treks in Nepal (yes, despite the 3000 steps!).
As an overachiever with a strong FOMO ;), and since we were way earlier than the other people, I suggested going to Poon Hill not only for the sunrise tomorrow morning but also to see the sunset. So we did it! This is something to include on your list if you ever go to Poon Hill. It was pure magic: just a few people, a stunning view, and a breathtaking sunset.
We had a cozy evening around the heater with lots of stories, laughter, and excitement.
The next morning (around 5 AM), our group and hundreds of others made the same 1.5 km walk to Poon Hill for the sunrise. It was freezing cold, packed with people, but fortunately, some entrepreneurial Nepalese were offering hot ginger-lemon water, which was a lifesaver. Angie and I did some show-off sunrise yoga (plenty of "wows" and "ahs" around), and then we went back to Ghorepani.
It was supposed to be the peak of our trekking. The original plan was to keep walking to another village and then head back to Pokhara. Somehow, I didn't feel this adventure was complete. It was so easy, I knew we could do more. So I suggested, if everyone was okay, we could skip Chitawan National Park and go to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC). Angie was excited by my idea. Sahadev and Robin checked their equipment (in their tiny backpacks) and said they were also okay. Since they are both small, I offered them my spare gloves, sweaters, socks, and ... ABC, here we come!

Chuile - Lost and Found
Part of our pre-planned route overlapped with the new plan to Annapurna Base Camp, so we started walking a bit more independently. There were no forks or junctions to get lost. We passed through Gurung Hill, Deurali, Banthanti, had lunch in Tadapani, and enjoyed amazing views towards Fishtail (Machhapuchhre), the sacred, never-climbed summit in the Annapurna Range.
After Tadapani, we were supposed to have a short hike (about 45 minutes) to the last stop for the day, Chuile. And then I had my little adventure.
I started walking 5 minutes behind the group and followed the instructions: "Go downhill, and in 45 minutes, you should be at Rainbow Lodge in Chuile."
And I did it. I had my best hike ever - alone in the jungle, surrounded by birds, monkeys, and amazing nature.
Walking for 45 minutes without meeting anyone was a bit strange. When I reached a village without any lodges, I realized I might be in the wrong place. No network access, of course.
I heard the voices of children playing and followed their direction. I started walking, and walking, and walking, with no clear idea where the final destination was.
It was amazing nature, like a fairytale. The sunset came, and it got darker. I asked some strangers where Rainbow Lodge was and got the same answer: "Yes, yes, go there." WHERE?!
I was back in the jungle, on many stone paths, with no people at all.
Eventually, 3 hours laterI heard a mule and assumed my group was already searching for me. I followed the sound and found the right path. Finally, Rainbow Lodge. All the trekkers were ready to start a massive search. Sahadev and Robin had gone back to Tadapani to follow my tracks.
It was the most magical day of all.
We slept in a lodge where I would definitely come back and spend at least a week. It was a place like a world from "Lord of the Rings": waterfalls, views, colors, the sound of nature. 
Some things I noticed: after the "touristy" Poon Hill and Ghorepani, facilities like hot water, WiFi, and phone charging became chargeable!

 Sinuwa - Things Are Getting Serious
Becoming more and more comfortable with mountain life, the treks, and the specifics of the landscape, I started understanding the so-called "Nepali flat." This means that climbing and going downhill are constantly changing, with stone steps followed by cobblestones and paths in the jungle. It's like life itself, up and down.
Passing through Churjung, we reached Chhomrong, the last town on the way to ABC. This was probably the last place where we could buy anything we thought we might need for the journey up (although we were already quite set). We enjoyed a cup of real coffee and a cinnamon roll from the German bakery, bought some souvenirs from the shop, and continued exploring the Nepali Flat.
What I find most interesting when trekking in the mountains is the people you meet along the way. They're all so different, everyone has their own interesting story and reason for being there. As an extroverted person, I managed to talk and take selfies with plenty of people.
On the way between Lower and Middle Sinuwa, we met a bunch of Scottish guys who were really taking their time, having beers and smoking weed, laughing, and having tons of fun. You can find more pictures and videos in my PolarSteps (click on the button below) to get an impression of the whole journey.
Somewhere in the afternoon, we reached Upper Sinuwa, our final destination for the day.
There's something specific about the accommodation and facilities in the Himalayas. The higher you go, the more expensive and limited everything becomes. All lodges have agreed on the same prices, including their food, accommodation, and services. And the scariest of all: there was no more heating, not even in the common room.
Things were getting serious!

Deurali - We're Almost There
We woke up really early the next day due to some noisy girls from the room next door. We decided to store some of our luggage in the lodge, as we were supposed to pass by the same lodge on the way back.
The day was bright and sunny, and the trek was much easier compared to the day before. Bamboo, Dovan, and Himalaya were just short trekking breaks on the way to the top. The breathtaking views were all around us.
Deurali was supposed to be our last accommodation before ABC. We slept at 3200 meters, and again, it was cold. Hot showers and WiFi were becoming more expensive, but I'm glad we had them.
We did some indoor improvised yoga, had dinner, and went to bed.

Annapurna Base Camp - The Easiest Part of the Trek!
The night in Deurali was cold and full of excitement. I woke up at 4 AM and couldn't fall asleep again. I felt like I was going for a marathon: the same feeling of excitement, fear (what if I have altitude sickness?), and curiosity.
Listening to a book, thinking about the upcoming day and adventure, I was ready to take the next step.
After less than 2 hours of walking, we were at Machhapuchre Base Camp, but the trekkers' traffic was intense.
Anyway, it was 10 AM, and we were halfway to our final destination. Wait. Was it that easy?
It was getting less and less steep on the way to ABC, but the wind got colder. The Modi River showed us the way to the top. Soon, the clouds started chasing us, and the scenery changed from "Lord of the Rings" to "Game of Thrones" and the Wall. Frozen rivers, crows, and ravens... The winter was coming! 🐺
And there was the base camp.
OMG, we made it! We had lunch at Annapurna Base Camp!
I had a short walk by myself later that day, chased by the clouds, exploring, and putting prayers and flags for peace and health. 
There was no heating in the ldge at all and the electricity for the trekkers was limited - it was powerd by solar panels and the su was limited in the afternoon.
Soon all lodges got fully packed, there were some people that came, made some photos and went back to MBC (Machhapuchhre Base Camp) for the night.
The hot water was the most expensive from all the places we've been, and I believe I was the only one who asked for it (to connect the boiler to the water system, they had to disconnect the pipes from the kitchen area).
We went to bed early, and cacooned in our sleeping bags, wraped with hats and gloves, having our power banks and phones under the blankets to keep them warm.In the room was around 5 degrees Celcius and it was only 8pm... "From some rooms we were abke to hear people cauphing, some of tgem compaining of nausia and dizziness. I fell asleep wondering what makes so many "sick"peope to spend the night in those conditions... (the next day I understood that these are the symptoms of Altitude sickness).
And then, at midnight, I woke up, crawled out of my sleeping bag for toilet, and I saw the most beautiful full moon and stary night I could ever imagine... 
We woke up at 6 AM for the sunrise and surprisingly, it wasn't as cold as I expected, even during the night (around 0 degrees).
The sun strarted kissing all Annapurnas one by one (there are Annapurna 1, 2, 3 and Annapurna South) . The  sky was bright and blue. All colours were so vivid!
That morning, facing the golden Annapurna, surrounded y the gravestones of the people who lost their lives for teir dream, I was thinking How small and yet big we are. Feeling small and invisible in front of the mighty mountain, and at the same tome big, knowing the thrive and the courage to bring us there and beyond. 

​With eyes, full of happy tears, I said to myself:
Goodbye, Annapurna. I will come back, I promise!

Going Down + Hot Springs
We got our breakfast in the camp and an hour later, we were on our way back to Bamboo. As expected, going back was easier, and we managed to cover a longer distance before the next stop. We had one night in Bamboo. We woke up early the next day and headed to Upper Sinuwa for a quick stop to collect the stuff we had left on the way up. Our longer break was in Chhomrong, where it felt like we were back in the Western world.
From Chhomrong, we headed to Jhinu Danda, a place with some thermal hot springs. We were surrounded by tens of Americans, enchiladas, and other definitely not Nepali stuff. We made a new friend, Poornima, an Indian trekker and a lovely person who joined us for a quick rooftop yoga session before the shower rain (which had turned into snow on ABC the day after we left the camp).
Why is Jhinu worth visiting? Nope, not for the enchiladas. Not even the longest suspension bridge nearby or the views.
It's all about the hot springs, a 15-minute walk from the lodge with unlimited hot water! And yes, they sell shampoo on the way down. Unlimited hot water. As simple as that!
In the evening, we took a bottle of wine, and our group, along with our new friend Poornima, celebrated the end of the trekking.
We spent the night at Jhinu and the next day headed to the jeep station, where Sahadev arranged a jeep to bring us back to Pokhara.

Yoga Everywhere!
As part of the whole experience were the yoga sessions we had.
I believe it's good for people to be prepared that the yoga classes on the trek aren't held in yoga rooms or studios. Sometimes the conditions are rough, or the trekkers are tired, so as a yoga teacher, I try to adapt the practice to what the group needs.
Some days we manage to have longer practices, sometimes we're doing yoga on steroids (like on Poon Hill where the temperature was below 0 at 6 AM!). Sometimes we were doing something like chair yoga in the lunchroom in the lodge, and sometimes we were wrapped in our sleeping bags, practicing yoga nidra to fall asleep faster and avoid feeling the cold.
If I may summarize, the yoga on the trek is there to deepen your trekking experience, and it's proof that yoga is for everyone and everywhere.

You can read part 1
​here

Stay tuned for Part 3, where I'll share more about Pokhara and how we did our most challenging hiking - in the city!

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​You can find more pictures, videos and stories about this Yoga and Trekking in Nepal 2022 adventue in PolarSteps - my favorite free app to store my travel memories:

Explore Nepal 2022 in polarsteps

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Mountain Essentials: A Quick Guide

​Transportation: Once you embark on the trek, asphalt roads are a thing of the past. Everyone walks, from locals to school-going students, some carrying incredibly heavy loads. Joining only part of the organized trek isn't possible unless you've arranged a private guide.
Electricity: Access and cost vary with altitude. Higher up, electricity is scarce, and charging devices or using WiFi comes at a price. At ABC, charging is dependent on solar panels, limiting you to around 4 hours per day.
Food & Prices: Lodge canteens operate on pre-approved menus and prices. Note that meat is off-limits in the Annapurna Conservation Area, and your luggage might be checked.
Medical Care: I only spotted one hospital-labeled building on my ABC journey. Ensure you have sufficient medication and health insurance covering altitudes above 3000 meters.
Cash is King: ATMs and card payments are non-existent in the mountains. Bring Nepalese Rupees (NPR) for food, tea, facilities.
Hygiene: Squat toilets are the norm. While I'm used to them, many find them uncomfortable. Remember to carry tissues and a bag as toilet paper and bins are scarce. Hot water and showers become paid after the touristy areas. Invest in slip-ons with thicker soles to protect your feet from the unknown shower room substances. The tiny boilers used for heating limit shower time to around 5 minutes. Wash your hair during sunny periods for quicker drying.
Drinking Water: Bottled water is available up to certain altitudes. Mountain-filtered water is a viable option everywhere. I personally opted for bottled water until the last two days, when I switched to filtered water with purifying drops.

You still can join our upcoming
​Yoga and Trekking adventure in Himalayas in October 2024:
​
Due to a last-minute cancelation, there is still one spot on Early Bird Price available. Don't miss it out!
​Find all details about Yoga & Adventure in the Himalayas:  The Langtang Gosaikunda Helambu Trek below and don't hesitate to email/WhatsApp me on +316800767090 - Olga

Langtang Gosaikunda Helambu Trekking and Yoga 2024

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